The Jaffna Peninsula at Sri Lanka’s northern tip is a world apart, a Tamil heartland of burning incense and fierce Hindu devotion, of palmyra palms shimmering in the heat haze, of a cuisine so distinct from the south that it feels like crossing into another country. After decades of conflict, Jaffna has re-emerged as one of Sri Lanka’s most compelling and authentic travel destinations, offering cultural experiences of depth that the more heavily touristed south cannot replicate. The Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil, one of the most important Hindu temples in Sri Lanka, blazes with colour and resonates with ritual in a moving manner. Nearby, the Portuguese-built Jaffna Fort has guarded the town since 1618, and its ramparts shelter a mix of colonial architecture and local life. The Jaffna Public Library, rebuilt after its catastrophic 1981 fire, is both a cultural institution and a symbol of resilience. Lunch is the day’s highlight for food lovers; the fiery Jaffna crab curry, mutton rolls and palmyra-sap toddy are experiences unto themselves.