Just north of Colombo lies Negombo, a coastal city with a soul distinctly its own. Known as “Little Rome” for its concentration of Catholic churches built during centuries of Portuguese rule, Negombo is also home to one of Sri Lanka’s most important fishing communities, whose dugout outrigger canoes have worked the same waters for generations. A lagoon boat safari drifts you past mangrove-fringed islands where kingfishers dart, and water monitors bask on mudbanks, while the Dutch Canal, part of a historic 120-kilometre inland waterway, provides a peaceful counterpoint to the busy coastal road. Visit the fish market at dawn to witness the electrifying morning auction where the night’s catch changes hands in minutes of rapid-fire bidding. Wander through fishing villages where catamarans are beached beside centuries-old churches, and sample freshly grilled seafood at a lagoon-side restaurant as herons wheel overhead in the afternoon light.